Lapland 2024
13 – 19 May 2024
Black-legged kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla) in Vardø harbor, Norway, 16 May 2024
A group of Spanish naturalist friends came to Finland while I was based in Helsinki, aiming to look for birds and other wildlife mostly around Finnish and Norwegian Lapland. For some of them, this was the first time in a Nordic country, meaning that many species would be lifers, and most of the landscapes were new to their eyes.
The time compromised our trip, so we planned to visit the areas of Varanger and Kuusamo during the third week of May 2024. The dates are favorable to connect with some Arctic specialties (e.g., Steller’s eider or Iceland gull) without missing the incoming summer migrants (e.g., red-flanked bluetail or rustic bunting). We enjoyed good numbers of many species, highlighting the abundance of short-eared owl and western capercaillie, the plentiful seabird colonies in Varanger, and the leks of ruff and black grouse showing their finest plumages.
Ideally, a slightly later start of the trip could have provided with a larger list of summer migrants, including little bunting, red-necked phalarope, or red-throated pipit. Additionally, late snowfall caused that the road north from Vardø towards Hamningberg remained closed, and time limitations prevented us from visiting alternative spots. Alas, we failed to connect with species typically seen in the north of Varanger such as glaucous gull, king eider, or yellow-billed loon. However, and despite the conditions, we managed to connect with most of our targets, found some surprises, and had a great time.
Itinerary
Day 1 (13 May 2024) Arrival in Helsinki airport at 11.00. Transfer to Viikki. Birding afternoon in wetlands and forest around Viikki. Night bus to Rovaniemi.
Day 2 (14 May 2024) Car rental in Rovaniemi. Hike to Kiilopää tundra. Lakes on the road. Stop in Neljän Tuulen Tupa hotel. Border cross to Norway. Night camping in Kongsfjordfjellet.
Day 3 (15 May 2024) Morning in Kongsfjordfjellet and Tana delta. Coast of Varangerfjord: Ekkerøya, Vadsøya, and Vardøya. Night at guest house in Vardø.
Day 4 (16 May 2024) Morning drive around Svartnes and Vardøya. Evening visit to Hornøya. Night at guest house in Vardø.
Day 5 (17 May 2024) Coast of Varangerfjord: Ekkerøya. Border cross to Finland. Lunch at Neljän Tuulen Tupa. Night camping in Konttainen near Kuusamo.
Day 6 (18 May 2024) Morning hike in Konttainen. Lakes of Kuusamo: Vihtasalmi tower. Drive back to Rovaniemi and rental car drop-off. Night bus to Helsinki.
Day 7 (19 May 2024) Morning in Viikki area towards Lammassaari. Departure to Helsinki airport after lunchtime.
Day 1 Monday 13th May 2024
The group meets at the Helsinki-Vantaa airport before noon. While we transfer to my place in Viikki, we start connecting with urban bird species such as hooded crow, Eurasian jackdaw, common gull, willow warbler, fieldfare, and European pied flycatcher. After lunch, we head to our first ornithological destination.
Coastal grassland around Purolahti tower, 13 May 2024
Viikki (Helsinki)
This neighborhood of Helsinki holds a network of wetlands surrounded by mixed forests, fields, and grasslands. Surrounding the Old Town bay, the Viikki-Vanhankaupunginlahti nature reserve is the largest reserve in Helsinki. With over 300 species of birds recorded, it ranks as the second most bird-diverse spot of the country on eBird, and a good infrastructure of towers, hides, and duckboards help finding them (see here).
We go through my usual ‘local patch’ walk in the Viikki area. We arrive to the fields of Etu-Viikki from Latokartano, stopping quickly by the lake at Saunapellon puisto, finding some Eurasian linnets and Eurasian tree sparrows. Manuring work attracts tens of common gulls and black-headed gulls, while some Eurasian skylarks, northern wheatears and Eurasian starlings roam closeby.
The first forest patch is usually productive, and we soon connect with the first stock doves, common ravens, Eurasian blackcap, greater whitethroat, and yellowhammer. Close to the first bird observatory, we find two tree pipits (the only ones of the trip) and my first spotted flycatcher of the season.
In the ditch crossing the fields and in the wider lake seen from the observatory, we spot good numbers of common teals and Eurasian wigeons, as well as some pairs of Canada goose, gadwall, northern shoveler, and common goldeneye. Large flocks of barnacle geese fly over the area, anticipating the numbers we would find later. A smart male western marsh-harrier patrols over the lake too.
The grasslands around Purolahti tower provide good looks of gray-headed wagtails, wood sandpipers, and common goldeneyes. Two common cranes, a Caspian tern and a male goosander fly over. Through scanning a group of about a dozen graylag geese, Darío spots an unexpected bonus bird: a juvenile greater white-fronted goose, quite late in the season!
Walking to the west, we make it to a recently-built observatory facing the mudflats behind Purolahti. This platform has proven helpful to spot waders. Indeed, we find a numerous group of spotted redshanks, a flock of ruffs including some males in nuptial plumage, both common and little ringed plover, common sandpiper, and Temminck’s stint. We are surrounded by the melodies of greater whitethroat and yellowhammer coming from the nearby shrubs, where we manage to see a lesser whitethroat too.
From Hakala and Keinumäki towers, we connect with the first tufted ducks, Arctic terns, and great black-backed gulls of the trip. The trees of the nearby island of Loppi hold an important colony of great cormorants, as well as numerous gray herons and two white-tailed eagles resting. But undoubtedly, the most impressive sight from these towers is a flock of over 2 000 barnacle geese in the north side of the Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti), with constant flocks flying back and forth over us.
We then keep on walking northwest through the Viikki Arboretum, where we hear several goldcrests, wood warblers, song thrushes, and thrush nightingales. Reed buntings are very numerous as we venture into the reedbed, although we often find them singing from willows. In the treatment plant, numerous gulls provide with good opportunities to compare species with each other, and we spot several smart-looking Baltic gulls (the local race of lesser black-backed gull).
Walking the forest of Pornaistenniemi provides us with the first looks to redwings, Eurasian treecreeper, and lesser spotted woodpecker. The reeds surrounding this forest are loud with the songs of sedge warblers and some common reed warblers. We spend some time in a hide in the reeds (Pornaistenniemen piilokoju), which is usually a proper place to spot bearded reedlings. Instead, we connect with the first Eurasian coots of the trip, and a flock of common swifts and barn swallows including some western house martins and bank swallows.
The Pornaistenniemi area holds three scarce birds in Helsinki that we manage to contact later in the evening. From the hide, we hear the singular booming of a great bittern. In the urban side of Pornaistenniemi, we immerse for a bit into the Helsinki birder scene as a gathering of twitchers gives away a fine-looking Eurasian nightjar resting on a tree next to a building. And, while we walk back towards Viikki, we manage to hear a Savi’s warbler, which has settled in the area for (at least) the last two summers despite its rarity in the area.
After such satisfying sightings, we end the birdwatching afternoon around Viikki with 87 different bird species. We reach home and enjoy some relaxing sauna. We depart Helsinki towards Rovaniemi at 21.40 from Viikki via the overnight bus from Onnibus. Despite a bed in the night train could make up for the length of the trip, we decided to take Onnibus because of the possibility to save some time by departing directly from Viikki (the closest train stops are ca. 30 min away), as well as a very competitive price.
Day 2 Tuesday 14th May 2024
After stops in Lahti, Jyväskylä, Oulu, and Kemi, and driving among fields with whooper swans, Eurasian curlews, and common cranes (night becomes shorter as we head north!), we reach Rovaniemi bus station at 08.55. We rent a 9-seat van until Saturday from the closeby train station, and soon start our roadtrip northwards.
On the road, raptors are quite apparent and we spot Eurasian sparrowhawk and Eurasian kestrel. Not too long later, the first (of many) herd of reindeer roams close to the road — this is very common in Lapland, and one of the reasons why driving carefully is a must in these roads.
Most water bodies remain frozen at this time of the year, so we take profit of most of the melted waters we stumble upon. Right after seeing an osprey past Ilmakkijärvi, a quick stop in the bigger lake Vajunenjärvi provides our first red-breasted mergansers and Arctic loons. Despite the excitement, we do not find any other open water before reaching our first destination for the day.
On the way up to Kiilopää summit, 14 May 2024
Kiilopää
Tundra on top of a 546 m high hill within the Urho Kekkonen National Park in Finnish Lapland, above the tree line. Although accessible from a car park via a 1.9 km trail dedicated to the rock ptarmigan (kiirunapolku), melting snow slowed our pace uphill. Scenic views and wildlife are most attractive at the top (see here).
Two common greenshanks call from top of pine trees in the parking of Kiilopää, a very unusual behavior from the perspective of south Europe birders. The whole area of Saariselkä is covered in deep snow despite the temperatures (15-20ºC), and hiking towards the top of Kiilopää is a hard task due to melting under the surface. Numerous redwings and meadow pipits delimit their territories as we hike up.
Closer to the top, I manage to find a pair of rock ptarmigans as two white balls contrasting with the background of the melted slopes around the hill top. We enjoy great looks of these smart-looking birds, still on their winter plumage.
Close to the top, a flock of eight common cranes fly over, and we fetch the first European golden-plovers. As we head down to the parking lot, Guillem and Andrea connect with a pair of willow ptarmigans and a flock of common redpolls, whereas I hear a whimbrel.
Northwards, the lake Ukonjärvi has a wide melted surface, and we scan its waters in the Leviäsalmi area. Several flocks of tufted ducks, common goldeneyes, common scoters, and red-breasted mergansers rest. Further away, in a forest area approximately midway between Inari and Ivalo, a spectacular flock of around 35 Bohemian waxwings fly past the road.
Winter-like views from the Toivoniemi tower, 14 May 2024
Kaamanen
This village belongs to Inari municipality, one of the capitals of the Sámi culture. The nearby Kaamasjoki river can be seen from top of the Toivoniemi bird tower, which provides a wide panoramic view in the middle of the taiga (see here).
Further north, Neljän Tuulen Tupa is a mythical hotel, café, and restaurant off road where delicious local food and hot drinks can be enjoyed while watching hundreds of Arctic specialties visiting bird feeders (see here).
The forest around Toivoniemi tower is the territory of a male European pied flycatcher, while Darío and I hear a Bohemian waxwing too. From top of the tall tower, pairs of Eurasian wigeons and common goldeneyes, and groups of four northern pintails and common mergansers roam in the meltwaters of Kaamasjoki. A common greenshank flies over the river.
We reach Neljän Tuulen Tupa after 19.30, by the time the restaurant service is closed. However, we are kindly served some hot drinks and pastries so we stay there for some time. Although no birds feed when we come over, slowly more and more bramblings come over until reaching the hundreds. Among them, we spot several common redpolls, house sparrows, a common chaffinch, a Eurasian tree sparrow, and a smart female pine grosbeak, the gem of this place. Although quite scarce here, a Eurasian jay visits the trees down by the lake.
Driving north, we stumble across the first two western capercaillie hens only 12 km away from the hotel. The road to the Norwegian border is rather uneventful, covered in snow and full of frozen lakes, and we only stop quickly for a rough-legged buzzard.
Bean-geese in a field around Tana Bru, 14 May 2024
Tana Bru
Village surrounded by a wide area of fields crossed by Tana river, at the base of the Varanger peninsula. The density of owls is particularly high around Tana Bru, making it the classical place to spot them resting in cables and poles. The fields can be favored by flocks of geese during migration (see here).
The immense flat taiga of Finnish Lapland is replaced by a rough relief originating new, attractive landscapes and a mosaic of ecosystems the road goes through. While the forests are deeply covered in snow, a field near Tana Bru hosts an important flock of ca. 180 tundra bean geese, with some taiga bean geese and a pink-footed goose within. A northern pintail male flies into this field, and whooper swans and rough-legged buzzards sit nearby.
The most spectacular sight of this section of the trip are the mammals. We find up to 13 European moose in small groups, crossing the roads and roaming in the fields. In addition, different red foxes patrol the fields. For reference, we drive around Tana Bru after 21.00 (note that Norway follows CEST and Finland EET).
We are heading towards the roads leading to north Varanger. Driving next to the Tana river, in one of the fields before the landscape changes again, a stunning northern hawk owl proves the potential of the area for these birds.
Snow-covered tundra in the Varanger highlands, 15 May 2024
Kongsfjordfjellet
Highland tundra well above the tree line at around 250 m high, scattered in small lakes, cliffs, and ravines, where the road diverts to Berlevåg and Båtsfjord. At our arrival, the entire area is covered in snow, and only few fragments of lakes and meltwaters are not frozen. Different highland passerines and waders breed in the area when snow melts (see here).
We reach Kongsfjordfjellet, in the center of Varanger, at 01.00 (technically, on day 15th). The barren tundra is covered in deep snow in all directions. There are good numbers of willow ptarmigans and European golden-plovers, as well as several red foxes. Despite strong winds and rain all ‘night’ (the sun never set), we set in one of the designated parking slots some kms towards Kongsfjord after the diversion. Some of us sleep in the car, while others set a tent for the night.
Day 3 Wednesday 15th May 2024
The group wakes up at 08.00 and rain has stopped, but not strong winds. As we pack the tent and have breakfast, two golden eagles fly over, and an unexpected pallid harrier lands nearby for some seconds. A common snipe sits in a nearby meltwater pond, and the calls of European golden-plovers and willow ptarmigans come from all around us.
Driving back to the road diversion, Pep spots two much appreciated horned larks. Several redwings and meadow pipits sing. Further south, but before reaching the tree limit, some meltwaters hold a single tundra bean-goose, while two Eurasian kestrels and a rough-legged buzzard fly over.
Parasitic jaeger flying over the fjord, 15 May 2024
Tana delta
Wide mouth of Tana river as it meets the Barents Sea. Sediments deposited provide with an interesting ecosystem for wildlife. Waters surrounding the road between Tana Bru and Austertana, less exposed than those of the sea in the Tanafjord, are a refuge for marine waterfowl (see here).
We scan the waters close to Tana delta on our next stop further south. In a very large flock of common eiders, Guillem and II spot two male with different features pointing towards northern eider (ssp. borealis), an unusual bird in mainland Europe, breeding in Iceland, Svalbard, and Canada. There are also four red-throated loons and pairs of common scoters and red-breasted mergansers.
In some cliffs next to the road bordering Tana river, we spot two rough-legged hawks and the only two merlins of the trip. We keep driving further from Tana delta towards the south side of Varanger peninsula.
Panorama from the shore in Nesseby, 15 May 2024)
Nesseby
A tiny peninsula in the base of the Varangerfjord, and our first stop by the sea in the east road of Varanger. A productive shore with grasslands, a little lake, and a church, the area is part of the Nesseby Nature Reserve. This spot holds good diversity of coastal waders and waterfowl (see here).
Nesseby is our first stop in the Varangerfjord, where we arrive by noon. Scoping the sea produces small numbers of velvet scoters, long-tailed ducks, red-breasted mergansers, and black guillemots. The shore is full of waders, with bar-tailed godwits, common shelducks, common redshank, common ringed-plover, dunlin, and Eurasian oystercatcher. A tiny pond holds spotted redshank and parasitic jaegers, and flying above, two northern pintails and four gadwalls — the later, out of their distribution range!
The grass of the peninsula is home to some mountain hares, as well as undetermined rodents given away by numerous holes and trails on the ground. Darío spots the first (of many) short-eared owl of the trip, perhaps after these preys. A white-tailed eagle flies close too. On the grass, there are small flocks of whimbrels and European golden-plovers, one of them joined by a dunlin.
Common and Steller’s eiders in front of Vadsø, 15 May 2024
Vadsøya
This island is connected by a bridge to the harbor of Vadsø, the largest town in the region. The harbor itself has a reputation in terms of eiders, as often some king and Steller’s eiders remain in these waters after winter. The island is covered in grasslands and lagoons, favored by waders (see here).
The parking lot of Vadsøya provides a panoramic view of the harbor and Vadsø at the bottom. Bar-tailed godwits, Eurasian oystercatchers, and common redshanks feed on the shore, where some common eiders rest, all at a reasonable distance for our cameras.
In a nearby sandy beach to the north, a group of hundreds of common eiders holds at least 24 Steller’s eiders, a target species of this trip. Observing the fine looks of males even from the car is an unparalleled experience.
The wind is extremely intense as we head to the barren east side of the island, scanning the bushes for passerines but only finding European greenfinches, house sparrows and meadow pipits. On the grass, we spot several groups of dunlins, European golden-plovers, and whimbrels.
The lagoon of east Vadsøya holds a group of 22 tufted ducks, a pair of mallards, a couple of common redshanks and a single female-like ruff, although a nearby white-tailed eagle is feeding on a black-and-white male ruff. A Eurasian kestrel flies closeby.
We approach the east tip of the island, where tens of herring gulls and some great black-backed gulls rest, sheltered from the strong winds. Onshore, a male long-tailed duck rests on the rocks. In the sea, tens of black-legged kittiwakes are harassed by parasitic jaegers.
Flåget colony in Ekkerøya, 15 May 2024
Ekkerøya
A small peninsula attached to the mainland via a small isthmus where the picturesque village of Ekkerøy sits. Around 20 000 kittiwakes gather in the cliffs of the ‘bird rock’ Flåget, in the Ekkerøy nature reserve, shared with some black guillemots and shags. The open sea nearby attracts different bird species to the area (see here).
The show of parasitic jaegers persecuting black-legged kittiwakes is most spectacular in Ekkerøya. We enjoy the endeavors of these birds as massive flocks of kittiwakes fly back and forth. The Flåget colony is an important stronghold of this gull species.
In the colony of Flåget, besides thousands of kittiwakes, we spot the breeding Atlantic shags and black guillemots in more discrete numbers — some of which swimming in front of the cliff. The cliffs are home to a pair of northern wheatears, too.
As we photograph parasitic jaegers, Guillem spots a long-tailed jaeger flying inland through Ekkerøya. This stunning light-morph bird is usually more typical of the inland high tundra, now covered in deep snow. Indeed, this bird would be the only one of its species we would see in our entire trip.
In the shoreline, several flocks of herring gulls and tens of purple sandpipers flying back and forth look for food among the material the ocean brings to the shore.
Among all the birds flying around, we spot a common murre. Moreover, in one of the rocks off Flåget, an Atlantic puffin with bad aspect rests, probably victim to a recent oil spilling event in the area.
During our drive north from Ekkerøya, we quickly stop around the area of Skallelv, where some fields have attracted several small flocks of geese. All in all, we count 52 tundra bean-goose, two graylag geese and at least one pink-footed goose. In addition, two whooper swans and a pair of northern pintail land in the area. Besides, white-tailed eagles are extremely abundant in the last section of the road, sitting on both sides and only flying away as soon as the car stops for pictures.
Looking for waders in the shore, 15 May 2024
Svartnes
An artificial bay and harbor in the mainland in front of Vardøya, where the road diverts to Vardø and Hamningberg. Breakwaters provide shelter to seals, kittiwakes, and other marine wildlife. During high tides, important flocks of waders feed close to the road bordering the bay (see here).
Before heading to Vardø, we make a very short detour to the nearby bay of Svartnes. A group of around 80 long-tailed ducks rest in the land of the harbor of south Svartnes, close to a lagoon likely swept by the wind where around 200 herring gulls mixed with great black-backed gulls and tens of black-legged kittiwakes feed.
We soon called it a day, as we reached our accommodation in the center of Vardø, a cozy guest house we would strongly recommend: Festningsgaten 3B via Booking, 156 € for five (up to six) people and two nights. We enjoyed dinner with the background noise of the strong Arctic winds and the urban colony of black-legged kittiwakes of Vardø. After discussing about the success of the trip thus far, we head to sleep soon.
Day 4 Thursday 16th May 2024
The wind speed peaks in the morning, so we have to change our initial plans to visit Hornøya. Arranging the trip to this mythical island is really straightforward, and the personnel at the Hornøya ticket office at the cargo terminal of Vardø harbor work to suit the expectations of customers. We headed to the office in the morning to check the timetables and the wind forecast, and they kindly informed us about it, even offering a ride to the island in the morning in case we were extremely interested — but informing of the perks of such weather in the island. As we have the full day to spend in the area, we plan to try Hornøya later in the day.
We drive back to the mainland, and visit the shore of Svartnes bay while the tide is high. The numbers of black-legged kittiwakes are quite impressive. Three white-tailed eagles fly over the bay, as well as a short-eared owl. The large group of roosting long-tailed ducks is still in the area as we drive past the south harbor.
The north side of Svartnes bay has a sandy beach where several waders feed together. Among them, a mixed group of 13 purple sandpipers, five red knots in different plumages, a dunlin, and a sanderling provide good photography opportunities.
A joy while birding in Varanger (and Lapland, in general) is the chance to connect with like-minded people and share findings. We joined two cars parked in a roadside as their drivers were waiting for a gyrfalcon that they had seen flying around some time before. Although we failed to find this fantastic raptor (for which the closed area of Hamningberg is relatively productive), we managed to find a playful stoat and enjoyed its energetic movements for some time.
The road north to the town of Hamningberg is still closed as the peninsula is still covered in snow. We planned to look for eiders, falcons, and pelagic birds from this corner of the region. As an alternative, we drive back to Vardøya and set our scopes.
Guillem and Darío looking for seabirds in strong wind, 16 May 2024
Vardøya
The main island of an archipelago at the east tip of Varanger, holding the picturesque town of Vardø and connected to the mainland via an underground tunnel. Covered in barren grassland, willow shrubbery, and rocky landscapes, but with a vibrant diversity of birds. Vardø holds an urban colony of kittiwakes, and the waters surrounding the island are great viewpoints for seals and pelagic birds (see here).
Visiting a section of the northwest side of Vardøya, we connect with an impressive total of five different short-eared owls! Unsurprisingly, the island is full of little burrows, and we manage to observe some tundra voles responsible for them. We also count at least six white-tailed eagles in the area.
Looking at the sea between Vardøya and the mainland, we connect with hundreds of black-legged kittiwakes, five parasitic jaegers of different morphs, and a much awaited light-morph pomarine skua spotted by Darío.
We eventually take the ferry to Hornøya at 14.00, when the wind speed is less intense. The price is NOK 600 (52 €) per adult and everything can be quickly arranged at the office, no need for bookings as of 2024. Because of the weather, we were allocated in the enclosed cockpit of a fishing boat, and we were almost the only visitors to Hornøya for the day. As we waited in the harbor, flying over the town, we spot an Arctic tern and a short-eard owl!.
Seabirds flushed away by an eagle, 16 May 2024
Hornøya
The pearl of Varanger, as 80 000 seabirds nest in the cliffs of the island including kittiwakes, murres, shags, razorbills, and puffins. This small island off Vardøya is easily accessible via a ferry departing several times a day from Vardø harbor without need for pre-booking. The numbers of birds flying in all directions is an absolute wonder. On top of the island, a lighthouse is a good viewpoint for whales and pelagic birds while pipits, ravens, and geese fly around (see here).
The ten-minute boat ride to Hornøya is really exciting, as the boat sails through an incredibly dense cloud of alcids and other seabirds before approaching the cliff. Prior to our arrival, we could already spot most of the species breeding on the island.
The colony of Hornøya is just spectacular. Tens of thousands of common murres fly in all directions and take care of their diminutive territories on the cliff. Among them, some hundreds of pairs of razorbills, black-legged kittiwakes, Atlantic puffins, and thick-billed murres (which are not difficult to find!) are part of this show. Among the rocks closest to the water, hundreds of pairs of Atlantic shags fiercely protect their nests. And every time one (of up to ten we find simultaneously) white-tailed eagle approaches the colony, thousands of birds scamper away synchronically, very close to us at times.
Despite how much we enjoy the densities of birds in the colony and the beauty of these species, we also face an uncomfortable reality. An oil spill that might have taken place recently is affecting the birds, as we can see several corpses and some common murres unable to fly properly due to oil stains, bumping aggressively into the rocks.
A path leading to the lighthouse at the top of the island proves quite interesting, as we spot the first rock pipits of the trip. Flocks of ravens, barnacle geese, and graylag geese fly over. A small bay between these islands holds tens of herring gulls, great black-backed gulls and common eiders resting, as well as up to three gray seals.
At this point, Guillem notices some blows in the water not too far away. Two pods of whales, including humpback whales and massive fin whales, were fishing close to the shores of Hornøya. This spectacular image was favored by hundreds of seabirds, among which Darío spots two Northern gannets and I scope one Northern fulmar, followed by other birds seen by Darío and Guillem.
After over three wonderful hours of daydreaming in Hornøya, we head back to the main island with the boat of 17.00 (note that the last boat can be late). A quick drive around Vardøya provides new looks to short-eared owls and several redwings and fieldfares. Within a group of common gulls, I find a stunning adult Iceland gull. Satisfied, we finish the day and enjoy our last night at the guest house in Vardø.
Day 5 Friday 17th May 2024
A day on the road ahead, we depart our accommodation in Vardø at around 06.00. As we drive south, we connect with several flocks of graylag geese, long-tailed ducks, goosanders, red-breasted mergansers, and several Arctic loons and red-throated loons.
A quick stop in Ekkerøya provides action shots of parasitic jaegers persecuting some of the thousands of black-legged kittiwakes of the colony once again. Three velvet scoters and four razorbills fly past the colony. A dozen of black guillemots swim close to the shore. Unfortunately, in the shore, an oiled thick-billed murre struggles to clean its plumage.
Driving past the harbor of Vardø from the mainland side, seven Steller’s eiders rest in the shore with several common eiders. Before leaving the road of Varangerfjord, we still spot two short-eared owls — the local abundance of small rodents seems to favor these stunning birds.
We cross the border and change our time zone as we drive back to Finland. Not far from the border, a northern hawk owl sits on a cable, providing great looks. Some hours south, a small flock of snow buntings fly away from the roadside — as we approach them, we only spot two birds. Later, a peatland crossed by the road is the lek area of seven fine ruff males, attracting several bird photography enthusiasts.
We enjoy a warm lunch at Neljän Tuulen Tupa while looking at the bird feeders. Three red squirrels keep scaring away different flocks of finches. We enjoy great looks of different plumages of bramblings and pine grosbeaks. Mixed with these birds, we find common chaffinch, European greenfinch, common redpoll, siskin, and a pair of Eurasian bullfinches.
Today, we manage to complete the ‘big five’ of this trip: the grouse. We have seen already willow ptarmigan and rock ptarmigan, as well as some western capercaillies on the road, so we still have two to go. South from Inari, Darío and I spot on a roadside a female hazel grouse. We stop the car and enjoy good views of this skulking bird crossing the road and slowly fading into the forest.
On the road between the towns of Kemijärvi and Kuusamo, as we drive through late in the day, the densities of fowl are impressive. All in all, we count 31 different western capercaillies in this road section. Most of them are solitary females either next to or crossing the road, although some of them come in pairs. One of the birds is a juvenile male.
Photographing two western capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus) hens on the road to Kuusamo, Finland, 17 May 2024
We complete our grouse quest as we drive next to two black grouse females. Later, we would find some smart males on top of the pines, next to the road, and even lekking on top of it! These birds-of-paradise of the western Palearctic give us great moments as they show themselves.
We reach the area of Kuusamo, approaching the hill of Valtavaara for our next birding targets tomorrow. The area is covered in deep snow, and we drive to the nearby parking lot of Konttainen, between Valtavaara and the nearby forest of Konttainen.
Views from the top of Konttainen hill, 18 May 2024
Konttainen
Next to the Valtavaara hill close to Kuusamo, this patch of old-growth taiga seems more accessible when snow is still present. This well-preserved boreal forest lies over a hilly terrain and holds most Arctic forest specialties and is easily reachable through different short hikes from a nearby parking lot (see here).
Past midnight, and as we set our campsite for the night, a Eurasian woodcock flies over our camp. The solar activity is favorable for northern lights and we are now south from the Arctic Circle, but it never gets dark enough to even get a glimpse of them.
Day 6 Saturday 18th May 2024
We set off early after collecting our camping gear and having breakfast surrounded by the calls of common cuckoo, common chiffchaff, goldcrest, common chaffinch, great tit, and redwings — not too different from the forests we visited in Helsinki after all. Soon, we start noticing some willow tits and Eurasian bullfinches.
We hike through the circular route around Kuusamo, dodging the meltwaters, the ice, and the deep snow. We find some brown bear tracks in the area. Once we reach a certain height, the song of red-flanked bluetail sounds from different directions. Several birds of this target species mark their territories close to the hill top. This is not the only Siberian gem of this forest, as we soon detect some Siberian jays following their calls. While we work on getting views of both species, we can also hear some Bohemian waxwings and bramblings.
Most birds seem to be clustered in a section of the forest, as mixed-species foraging flocks, and we virtually find. nobirds as we keep on walking uphill. The view from top of Konttainen is impressive, covering a big area of taiga and the popular Ruka ski station. We decide to head down, and we find several guided tours looking for red-flanked bluetails with scopes — as we help them finding some birds, they let us get some looks through their scopes, as we left ours in the car. Note that these small-sized birds are quite hard to see (I glimpse one in the lower part of the trees only for few seconds) and are best looked for up at the tree tops while they sing.
Young, open forest area close to Kuusamo, 18 May 2024
Vihtasalmi (Kuusamo)
Birdwatching tower on the western side of lake Kuusamojärvi, near the town of Kuusamo. The view covers a wide section of the lake, although parts of it were frozen during our visit, as well as a shore grassland, some reeds, and a birch forest favored by rustic buntings. The lake itself is home to several northern waterbirds (see here).
Our last stop also holds gems of the North. As we park in front of the Vihtasalmi tower, a stunning little gull flies close to our car. This is part of several small groups summing a total of ten birds in the lake. In the tower, we connect with a BirdLife Finland volunteer as we connect with awesome birds. Three smews including a fine-looking male, three red-necked grebes, and two Arctic loons swim in the lake. Flying over, a common scoter, a Eurasian curlew, an Arctic tern, and a pair northern pintails that eventually land. In the water, several pairs of Eurasian wigeons and tufted ducks complete the birds of the lake.
Around the lake, a deciduous forest is home to several western yellow wagtails that fly back and forth to the lake. We also spot some reed bunting males, but not long later we hear the song of the rustic bunting. We spend some time trying to locate one. of the singing birds, eventually finding a male that only provides brief looks to part of the group. After an unfruitful wait (in which we spot a willow tit), we leave the area.
As we drive away from the Kuusamo area, we stop in some lakes to find some common cranes, whooper swans, common teals, Eurasian wigeons, and wood sandpipers. We make it back to Rovaniemi, where we have some hours to drop off the rental car, fetch some food, and wait for our night bus back to Helsinki, leaving at 21.00.
Day 7 Sunday 19th May 2024
Looking at a common rosefinch towards Lammassaari, 19 May 2024
Viikki (Helsinki)
We reach Lammassaari, an island connected to the mainland by a wide reedbed and an accessible path, is part of the Old Town bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti) — and therefore, close to Viikki area. The combination of reeds, shallow waters, mudflats, and a mixed forest with several deciduous tree species provide habitat to many different species, which are often easily spotted thanks to a good infrastructure of birdwatching towers and trails (see here).
The gardens of Latokartano hold the usual European pied flycatchers, house sparrows, greenfinches, goldfinches, chaffinches, and hooded crows. Today, on top of that, we connect with two northern wheatears that nest in a rocky area in the neighborhood.
We walk by Gardenia bar, next to the BirdLife store, and right in the first tree of the water ditch bordering the road, Darío spots a smart male common rosefinch that we all enjoy before it flies away.
In the fields, good numbers of northern lapwings, common gulls, and black-headed gulls gather in the recently manured soil. The water treatment lagoons always provide with great looks of usually distant birds, such as Eurasian wigeons and gadwalls. We only find common gallinule here, as this species is scarce and localized in Finland. Another first for the trip, this time a migrant — Guillem spots a male red-backed shrike on top of one of the birches bordering the lagoons.
As we walk through the Viikin Arboretum and the nearby reeds on the way to the treatment plant, we notice that the songs of sedge warblers, thrush nightingales, wood warblers, willow warblers, lesser whitethroats, and reed buntings seem more widespread than on our last walk in Viikki. We encounter fantastic photographic opportunities with some of these skulking species during our walk.
Although we don’t visit the hide in Pornaistenniemi, we climb up to the nearby tower, from where we contact with Caspian terns, Baltic gulls, black-headed gulls, common gulls, Arctic terns, common terns, and graylag geese.
The walk to and in Lammassaari is rather uneventful. The area is quite full of people, and we manage to get some more views of common rosefinch, white-tailed eagle, and lesser whitethroat, among others, but not many waders of waterfowl can be seen from the towers of the island. As we leave the area, a cooperative thrush nightingale sings in the open in Pornaistenniemi.
From Pornaistenniemi area, and via a quick stop in Latokartano to retrieve luggage, the Spanish part of the group departs to the Helsinki airport for late lunch and boarding at around 15.00 after an intense yet productive week of impressive encounters with the wildlife of these latitudes.
Short-eared owl (Asio flammeus) in Vardøya, Norway, 16 May 2024
Systematic list of species
Birds
1. Graylag goose (Anser anser)
Flocks of up to some dozens in Viikki area and grasslands of Varanger, mostly in the east coast.
2. Greater white-fronted goose (Anser albifrons)
One individual in a flock of graylag geese in the lake next to Purolahti tower in Viikki area on 13th May.
3. Taiga bean goose (Anser fabalis)
At least four individuals within a flock of numerous bean geese around Tana Bru (69.960194, 27.293665) late on 14th May.
4. Tundra bean goose (Anser serrirostris)
A flock of at least 180 individuals roam with other geese in Tana Bru (69.960194, 27.293665) late on 14th May. A single bird is found in the only meltwater area in Kongsfjordfjellet and a flock of over 50 individuals land in a field around Skallelv, both on 15th May.
5. Pink-footed goose (Anser brachyrhynchus)
One bird in a large mixed bean goose flock in Tana Bru (69.960194, 27.293665) late on 14th May. At least one bird in a flock of bean geese in a field around Skallelv on 15th May.
6. Barnacle goose (Branta leucopsis)
Very numerous in Helsinki, where a flock of over 2000 birds rest in north Vanhankaupunginlahti on 13th May. A flock of five birds fly over Hornøya on 16th May.
7. Canada goose (Branta canadensis)
Several pairs seen in different spots of the Viikki fields and wetlands on 13th and 19th May.
8. Whooper swan (Cygnus cygnus)
Single birds and pairs scattered through the fields on the road towards Rovaniemi, as well as in the fields of Varanger, seen on different dates.
9. Common shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Up to eight individuals in the shore of Nesseby on 15th May.
10. Northern shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Two pairs in the lagoon between Purolahti tower and Etu-Viikki fields in Helsinki on 13th May.
11. Gadwall (Mareca strepera)
Different pairs seen in different spots of the Viikki fields and wetlands on 13th and 19th May. Four unexpected birds flying over Ekkerøya on 15th May.
12. Eurasian wigeon (Mareca penelope)
Different pairs seen in different ditches and lagoons in Viikki on 13th May and 19th. A pair seen in Kaamasjoki from Toivoniemi tower in Kaamanen on 14th May. A pair seen in Svartnes bay near Vardø on 16th May. Four pairs in Vihtasalmi near Kuusamo on 18th May, as well as on different lakes on the road.
13. Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Several pairs around Viikki wetlands, and females followed by their ducklings. Few pairs were found on different places and occasions in Varanger.
14. Northern pintail (Anas acuta)
Two pairs in Kaamasjoki seen from Toivoniemi tower and a male in a field in Tana Bru full of bean geese, both on 14th May. A pair in Nesseby and two pairs in Skallelv close to a geese group, both on 15th May. A pair in Vardøya on 16th May. A pair landing on the lake seen from Vihtasalmi near Kuusamo on 18th May.
15. Common teal (Anas crecca)
Some big flocks in Viikki wetlands on 13th May. Several pairs seen in Vihtasalmi near Kuusamo on 18th May.
16. Tufted duck (Aythya fuligula)
Flocks of birds resting in Vanhankaupunginlahti from Hakala tower on 13th May, Ukonjärvi on 14th May, Vadsø harbor on 15th May, and Vihtasalmi near Kuusamo on 18th May.
17. Steller’s eider (Polysticta stelleri)
A group of 24 birds mixed with common eiders in Vadsø harbor seen from Vadsøya on 15th May. Seven birds rest on the mainland side of the harbor on 17th May.
18.1 Common eider (Somateria mollissima mollissima)
Very numerous in the Barents sea waters in Varangerfjord and Tanafjord, with flocks seen all days during our stay in Varanger.
18.2 Northern eider (Somateria mollissima borealis)
At least two males showing different features of this subspecies in a common eider flock close to Tana delta (70.458480, 28.462355) on 15th May.
19. Velvet scoter (Melanitta fusca)
A pair in the waters off Nesseby on 15th May. Three birds flying over the sea in Ekkerøya on 17th May. A bird flying seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
20. Common scoter (Melanitta nigra)
A flock of eight birds in Ukonjärvi on 14th May. A pair in the Tana delta and another one in Vadsø harbor, both on 15th May.
21. Long-tailed duck (Clangula hyemalis)
A pair in Nesseby and one male in Vadsø harbor, both on 15th May. A flock of around 80 birds roosting in Svartnes bay near Vardø on 15th to 17th May.
22. Common goldeneye (Bucephala clangula)
Different individuals seen in wetlands during all sections of the trip within Finland, but not in Varanger.
23. Smew (Mergellus albellus)
A female and a pair including a smart-looking drake seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
24. Goosander (Mergus merganser)
Few individuals seen in the Viikki area on 13th May. Four birds spotted from Toivoniemi tower in Kaamasjoki river on 14th May. A flock of 25 birds in a small bay of Varangerfjord (70.267082, 30.820211) on 17th May.
25. Red-breasted merganser (Mergus serrator)
Small groups seen on different lakes of northern Finnish Lapland and the coastline of Varanger on different dates.
26. Hazel grouse (Tetrastes bonasia)
A female roams on the bushes of the road side between Inari and Ivalo (68.861, 27.194) on 17th May, slowly crossing the road and eventually flying into the forest.
27. Willow ptarmigan (Lagopus lagopus)
Numerous above the tree limit in Kongsfjordfjellet tundra on 15th May. Some birds were sporadically seen in the snow-covered areas of east Varanger as well, e.g., Svartnes bay near Vardø on 16th May.
28. Rock ptarmigan (Lagopus muta)
A beautiful pair close to the top of Kiilopää on 14th May.
29. Western capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus)
An impressive total of 33 birds were contacted during the whole trip. Two females crossed the road only 12 km north from Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 14th May. The rest, all females but a juvenile male, were birds in couples or alone seen in the road between Kemijärvi and Konttainen near Kuusamo in the late evening on 17th May.
30. Black grouse (Lyrurus tetrix)
A total of 19 birds, males and females, were seen from the road between Kemijärvi and Konttainen near Kuusamo in the late evening on 17th May. Some of the males displayed in leks even on the road!
31. Red-necked grebe (Podiceps grisegena)
A pair and a bird in the nest seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
32. Great crested grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
Two birds fishing in the waters of the Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti) seen from Hakala on 13th May.
33. Feral pigeon (Columba livia domestica)
An urban species introduced to Helsinki, seen mostly during bus and train transfers. Three birds fly over Vadsø harbor on 15th May.
34. Stock dove (Columba oenas)
Seen in good numbers in forested areas around the Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti) near Viikki, both on 13th and 19th May.
35. Common wood-pigeon (Columba palumbus)
An abundant garden species in Helsinki, seen in different areas on our time spent in the city.
36. Common cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
A bird sings in Viikin Arboretum on 13th May. Darío and Adrián hear a distant bird from the tent in Konttainen near Kuusamo very early on 18th May.
37. Eurasian nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus)
A bird roosting in the tree of a garden next to a building close to Pornaistenniemi near Viikki, twitched by many, on 13th May.
38. Common swift (Apus apus)
Present in good numbers in Viikki, especially over the reedbed of the Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti).
39. Water rail (Rallus aquaticus)
Heard from Pornaistenniemen piilokoju near Viikki on 13th May.
40. Eurasian moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
A bird in the water treatment lagoons next to Viikki Campus on 19th May.
41. Eurasian coot (Fulica atra)
Two birds seen from Pornaistenniemen piilokoju near Viikki on 13th May.
42. Common crane (Grus grus)
Two birds flying over the observatories near Viikki on 13th May. A group of eight birds flying over Kiilopää on 14th May. More flocks seen in flight on different dates and sites across Finnish Lapland.
43. Eurasian oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus)
Relatively abundant in Helsinki and Varanger, seen in different dates and places in such areas.
44. European golden-plover (Pluvialis apricaria)
One bird close to Kiilopää top on 14th May. Abundant in Varanger, seen daily in good numbers, especially in Kongsfjordfjellet.
45. Common ringed plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
One bird near Viikki on 13th May. A bird in the shore of Nesseby peninsula on 15th May.
46. Little ringed plover (Thinornis dubius)
One bird in the fields of Etu-Viikki on 13th May.
47. Northern lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
Good numbers in the fields and mudflats of Viikki seen on 13th and 19th May.
48. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
A bird heard from Kiilopää on 14th May (Adrián). Seen in different coastal grasslands in Varanger on different dates.
49. Eurasian curlew (Numenius arquata)
Different individuals in the fields on the way to Rovaniemi (Darío) and around Kuusamo (Adrián). A bird flying close to Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
50. Bar-tailed godwit (Limosa lapponica)
Good numbers seen on the coastline of Nesseby, Vadsø harbor, and other coastal areas on 15th May.
51. Eurasian woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)
A bird flying over our camp in Konttainen near Kuusamo the night of 17th to 18th May.
52. Common snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
Few birds seen in Varanger: one in Kongsfjordfjellet on 15h May, one in Svartnes on 16th May, and one in Vardø on the same date. Seen in lakes around Kuusamo on the road on 17th May, as well as one bird around Vihtasalmi tower on 18th May.
53. Common sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
Two birds seen from Hakala tower near Viikki on 13th May. A bird seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
54. Wood sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
Quite abundant in the Purolahti mudflats near Viikki. Three birds seen from Vihtasalmi tower on 18th May.
55. Common redshank (Tringa totanus)
Different individuals seen and heard around Viikki on 13th and 19th May. One bird in the coastline of Nesseby and three birds in Vadsø harbor on 15th May.
56. Spotted redshank (Tringa erythropus)
A group of 17 birds in summer plumage close to Purolahti mudflats on 13th May. Two birds in a small lagoon of Nesseby peninsula on 15th May.
57. Common greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
Three birds seen around the parking lot of Kiilopää and one bird flying over Kaamasjoki river seen from Toivoniemi tower, both on 14th May.
58. Red knot (Calidris canutus)
Five birds mixed with purple sandpipers, a dunlin, and a sanderling in the north corner of Svartnes bay near Vardø on 16th May.
59. Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
Six birds, including males in nuptial plumage, in the Purolahti flats near Viikki on 13th May. A female-like bird in the lagoon of Vadsøya on 15th May. Seven males displaying on a lek by the road between Inari and Ivalo on 17th May.
60. Temminck’s stint (Calidris temminckii)
Two birds in Purolahti mudflats near Viikki on 13th May.
61. Sanderling (Calidris alba)
A bird mixed with purple sandpipers, five red knots, and a dunlin in the north corner of Svartnes bay near Vardø on 16th May.
62. Dunlin (Calidris alpina)
Abundant in the coast of Varanger, seen all days in different locations.
63. Purple sandpiper (Calidris maritima)
Several flocks of up to 17 birds seen in the coastal area between Ekkerøya and Vardø, including Hornøya, seen on 15th and 16th May.
64. Long-tailed jaeger (Stercorarius longicaudus)
A light-morph bird flying over Ekkerøya on 15th May.
65. Parasitic jaeger (Stercorarius parasiticus)
Over 20 birds, including light and dark-morphs, seen in the waters of Varangerfjord on different dates.
66. Pomarine jaeger (Stercorarius pomarinus)
A light-morph bird over the sea between Vardøya and the mainland on 16th May.
67. Atlantic puffin (Fratercula arctica)
One stranded individual on the rock islets off Ekkerøya on 15th May. Seen in good numbers in Hornøya on 17th May.
68. Black guillemot (Cepphus grylle)
Three birds swimming close to Nesseby on 15th May. One bird in the boat trip to Hornøa on 16th May. A scarce breeder in Ekkerøya seen on 15th and 17th May.
69. Razorbill (Alca torda)
Seen in good numbers in Hornøya on 17th May. Four individuals fly around Flåget in Ekkerøya on 17th May, where we also find a dead individual likely killed by a raptor.
70. Thick-billed murre (Uria lomvia)
Some pairs in steep cliffs of Hornøya, mixed between common murres, on 16th May. An oiled bird ashore in Ekkerøya on 17th May.
71. Common murre (Uria aalge)
A bird flying around Flåget in Ekkerøya on 15th May. Thousands of pairs breeding in Hornøya on 16th May.
72. Little gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
Ten birds seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
73. Black-legged kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla)
Numerous in the waters of Varangerfjord and seen daily during our stay in the area. Good numbers breeding in colonies of Ekkerøya and Hornøya, but also in towns including Vardø — even in front of our accommodation!
74. Black-headed gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Abundant in Viikki, seen on 13th and 19th May. A bird in Tana delta and another one in Vadsø harbor on 15th May. Seven birds seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
75. Common gull (Larus canus)
Seen in good numbers daily in cities, fields, and coastal areas.
76. European herring gull (Larus argenteus)
Seen daily in Helsinki and Varanger, where it is especially abundant, with groups of hundreds.
77. Great black-backed gull (Larus marinus)
Small numbers around Viikki area on 13th and 19th May. Seen daily in the coast of Varanger, with several pairs breeding in Hornøya on 16th May.
78.1 Baltic gull (Larus fuscus fuscus)
Good numbers in the tratment plant of Viikki on 13th and 19th May.
78.2 Lesser black-backed gull (Larus fuscus ssp.)
A bird flying over meltwaters of Kongsfjordfjellet on 15th May.
79. Iceland gull (Larus glaucoides)
An adult in a group of common gulls on the west coast of Vardøya on 16th May.
80. Caspian tern (Hydroprogne caspia)
Seen near Viikki: a bird flying over Purolahti tower on 13th May, and a bird flying over the duckboards to Lammassaari on 19th May.
81. Arctic tern (Sterna paradisaea)
Some birds fishing over the Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti) near Viikki on 13th and 19th May. A bird flying over Vardø harbor on 16th May. A bird seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
82. Common tern (Sterna hirundo)
Good numbers near Viikki, with groups seen from Purolahti tower on 13th May and Lammassaari hide on 19th May.
83. Red-throated loon (Gavia stellata)
Four birds in Tana delta on 15th May. Three birds south from Nesseby (70.174619, 28.730886) on 17th May.
84. Arctic loon (Gavia arctica)
A bird seen in a lake between Rovaniemi and Kiilopää (67.73300, 26.75681) on 14th May. A pair seen in the sea in Krampenes near Ekkerøya on 17th May. A pair seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
85. Northern fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis)
At least two light-morph birds seen from the lighthouse of Hornøya on 16th May.
86. Northern gannet (Morus bassanus)
Two adults seen from the lighthouse of Hornøya on 16th May.
87. Great cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Tens of pairs in the colony of Loppi island in the middle of the Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti) near Viikki on 13th and 19th May. Few birds seen on different dates in Varangerfjord.
88. European shag (Gulosus aristotelis)
Seen in and around the colonies of Ekkerøya on 15th and 17th May, and Hornøya, where it is particularly abundant, on 16th May.
89. Great bittern (Botaurus stellaris)
One bird heard from Pornaistenniemen piilokoju near Viikki on 13th May.
90. Gray heron (Ardea cinerea)
Several individuals seen around the Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti) near Viikki, flying over, resting in the trees of Loppi island, and fishing on 13th and 19th May.
91. Osprey (Pandion haliaetus haliaetus)
A bird seen some hours driving north from Rovaniemi (67.73300, 26.75681) on 14th May.
92. Golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)
A pair of birds flying over Kongsfjordfjellet (70.54179, 29.07296) in the morning of 15th May.
93. Western marsh harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
Seen in the wetlands of Viikki area: two birds on 13th May, and one bird on 19th May.
94. Hen harrier (Circus cyaneus)
A bird swept by the wind lands in Kongsfjordfjellet (70.54179, 29.07296) and flies away shortly after in the morning of 15th May.
95. Eurasian sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
A bird flying over the road north from Rovaniemi (67.276, 26.686) on 14th May.
96. White-tailed eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla)
At least 34 birds seen during the whole trip, in different locations and dates in Helsinki and Varanger. In Viikki area, several birds were seen resting and feeding on the trees of Loppi island. In Varanger, the road section between Vardø and Vadsø holds an impressive density of eagles.
97. Rough-legged buzzard (Buteo lagopus)
At least ten birds seen in the whole trip on different dates, between the area of Kaamanen north to Varanger. A pair flies in cliffs next to Tana delta on 15th May.
98. Northern hawk owl (Surnia ulula)
One bird between Tana Bru and the delta right after midnight on 15th May. One bird in the Finnish side of the border in Utsjoki area on 17th May.
99. Short-eared owl (Asio flammeus)
Ten birds seen in different locations and dates along the coast of Varangerfjord between Nesseby and Vardø. An impressive sight of five different birds took place in Vardøya on 16th May.
100. Great spotted woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
Seen in Adrián’s garden in Viikki area on 13th May. Two birds seen in Konttainen and from Vihtasalmi tower, both near Kuusamo on 18th May.
101. Lesser spotted woodpecker (Dryobates minor)
A bird flies over in the forest section between the Viikki treatment plant and Pornaistenniemi on 13th May.
102. Eurasian kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
A bird flying over the road some hours north from Rovaniemi (67.546, 26.698) on 14th May. Two birds in Kongsfjordfjellet and one seen from Vadsø harbor on 15th May. A bird seen in Vardøya on 16th May. One bird close to Nesseby and two birds on the road from Sodankylä to Kemijärvi on 17th May.
103. Merlin (Falco columbarius)
A pair flies in cliffs next to Tana delta on 15th May.
104. Red-backed shrike (Lanius collurio)
A male in the trees of the path bordering the water treatment lagoons next to Viikki Campus on 19th May.
105. Siberian jay (Perisoreus infaustus)
At least two birds well seen and heard in Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
106. Eurasian jay (Garrulus glandarius)
One bird seen from Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 14th May.
107. Eurasian magpie (Pica pica)
Birds seen around Viikki area on 13th May. One bird seen from Toivoniemi tower near Kaamanen on 14th May. A bird in the Nesseby peninsula on 17th May.
108. Eurasian jackdaw (Corvus monedula)
Abundant in Helsinki, well seen on 13th and 19th May.
109. Hooded crow (Corvus cornix)
Abundant and widespread, seen in all visited areas and days during the trip.
110. Common raven (Corvus corax)
Detected in Viikki area on 13th and 19th May in low numbers. Two birds fly over Hornøya on 16th May. A bird flies over the forest in Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
111. Willow tit (Poecile montanus)
Up to three birds in Konttainen and one from Vihtasalmi tower, both near Kuusamo on 18th May.
112. Eurasian blue tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)
Abundant in Helsinki, well seen on 13th and 19th May.
113. Great tit (Parus major)
Abundant in Helsinki, well seen on 13th and 19th May. A bird seen in Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 17th May. Two birds in Konttainen and one from Vihtasalmi tower, both near Kuusamo on 18th May.
114. Horned lark (Eremophila alpestris)
A pair seen in Kongsfjordfjellet (70.54179, 29.07296) on 15th May.
115. Eurasian skylark (Alauda arvensis)
Abundant in the fields of Viikki, where heard and seen on 13th and 19th May.
116. Sedge warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
Abundant in the reeds of the Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti) near Viikki, where heard and seen on 13th and 19th May.
117. Common reed warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
One bird singing from the reeds heard from Hakala tower near Viikki on 13th May.
118. Savi’s warbler (Locustella luscinioides)
One bird singing from the reeds heard from Pornaistenniemi forest edge near Viikki on 13th May.
119. Bank swallow (Riparia riparia)
At least one bird seen in a group of swallows and martins from Pornaistenniemen piilokoju on 13th May (Andrea, Guillem, Pep, and Darío).
120. Barn swallow (Hirundo rustica)
Abundant in the area of Viikki, where heard and seen on 13th and 19th May. Two birds seen in Ekkerøya on 17th May.
121. Western house-martin (Delichon urbicum)
At least one bird seen in a group of swallows and martins from Pornaistenniemen piilokoju on 13th May.
122. Wood warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix)
Heard singing in different forest patches of Viikki, including Viikin Arboretum on 13th May.
123. Willow warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus)
Abundant in the green areas of Helsinki, where heard and seen on 13th and 19th May.
124. Common chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita)
Two singing birds in Konttainen and Vihtasalmi, both near Kuusamo on 18th May.
125. Eurasian blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla)
Present in the green areas of Helsinki, where heard and seen on 13th and 19th May.
126. Lesser whitethroat (Curruca curruca)
Present in the green areas of Helsinki, where heard and seen on 13th and 19th May.
127. Greater whitethroat (Curruca communis)
Good numbers in forest edges and shrubbery around Viikki, where heard and seen on 13th and 19th May.
128. Goldcrest (Regulus regulus)
Different birds heard in Viikin Arboretum on 13th May, and in Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
129. Eurasian treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla)
A bird seen in Pornaistenniemi near Viikki on 13th May (Pep, Darío, and Adrián).
130. European starling (Sturnus vulgaris)
Some birds visiting the manured areas of the Etu-Viikki fields on 13th May.
131. Song thrush (Turdus philomelos)
Singing birds in Viikki area (13th and 19th May), Kiilopää (14th May), and Konttainen (18th May), to name some.
132. Redwing (Turdus iliacus)
Seen and heard in all the areas visited during the trip during all days.
133. Eurasian blackbird (Turdus merula)
A common garden bird in Helsinki, where seen in good numbers on 13th and 19th May.
134. Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris)
Seen and heard in all the areas visited during the trip during all days.
135. Spotted flycatcher (Muscicapa striata)
A bird seen in Viikin Arboretum on 13th May. A bird seen in Pornaistenniemi near Viikki on 19th May.
136. European robin (Erithacus rubecula)
A bird heard in Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
137. Thrush nightingale (Luscinia luscinia)
Seen and heard in Viikki area on 13th and 19th May.
138. Red-flanked bluetail (Tarsiger cyanurus)
At least six birds singing from treetops in Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
139. Eurasian pied flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca)
A common garden bird in Helsinki, where seen on 13th and 19th May. One male singing around Toivoniemi tower near Kaamanen and one male in Neljän Tuulen Tupa, both on 14th May.
140. Northern wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe oenanthe)
Two birds on the Etu-Viikki fields on 13th May. Two birds in Ekkerøya on 15th May. Two birds in Latokartano area near Adrián’s garden in Viikki area on 19th May.
141. Bohemian waxwing (Bombycilla garrulus)
A group of around 35 birds seen on the road between Ivalo and Inari (68.839, 27.257). One bird heard around Kaamanen (69.010, 27.002). At least three birds contacted in Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
142. House sparrow (Passer domesticus)
An urban and garden bird seen in good numbers in Helsinki on 13th May and 19th. Birds visiting Neljän Tuulen Tupa feeders on 14th and 17th May. Small numbers seen in and around Ekkerøy, Vardø, and Vadsø on our different visits.
143. Eurasian tree sparrow (Passer montanus)
An urban and garden bird seen in good numbers in Helsinki on 13th and 19th May. One bird visits the feeders at Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 14th May.
144. Western yellow (gray-headed) wagtail (Motacilla flava thunbergi)
Three birds in the grasslands around Purolahti and Hakala towers near Viikki on 13th May. Five birds seen from Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
145. White wagtail (Motacilla alba alba)
A common bird in the Finnish side of the itinerary, seen in gardens and wetlands in all places visited and days. In Norway, a bird seen in Nesseby on 15th May.
146. Meadow pipit (Anthus pratensis)
Good numbers in the tundra of Kiilopää (14th May) and Kongsfjordfjellet (15th May). Birds seen in the grasslands of Vadsøya, Vardøya and Ekkerøya on our different visits.
147. Tree pipit (Anthus trivialis)
Two birds in the forest patch east from Purolahti tower near Viikki on 13th May.
148. Rock pipit (Anthus petrosus)
Three birds in Hornøya on 16th May.
149. Common chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)
An urban and garden bird seen in good numbers in Helsinki on 13th and 19th May. Single males visiting the feeders at Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 14th and 17th May. A pair seen in Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
150. Brambling (Fringilla montifringilla)
Very numerous visitor at the feeders of Neljän Tuulen Tupa, with a group of over 135 birds on 14th May. Detected in most forested areas of Finnish Lapland on our different stops. Four birds in the forest of Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
151. Common rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus)
A male on an alder of the ditch bordering Gardenia in Viikki Campus, and more individuals in the area of Pornaistenniemi and Lammassaari on 19th May.
152. Pine grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator enucleator)
Several birds seen in the feeders of Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 14th and 17th May.
153. Eurasian bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula pyrrhula)
A pair visits the feeders at Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 17th May. One bird heard in Konttainen near Kuusamo on 18th May.
154. European greenfinch (Chloris chloris)
An urban and garden bird seen in all visited areas and almost everyday.
155. Eurasian linnet (Linaria cannabina)
Seen in garden areas around Viikki on 13th and 19th May.
156. Common redpoll (Acanthis flammea flammea)
A flock of five birds spotted on the hike down from Kiilopää on 14th May (Andrea and Guillem). At least five birds visiting the feeders at Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 13th and 17th May.
157. European goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis)
Seen in garden areas around Viikki on 13th and 19th May.
158. Eurasian siskin (Spinus spinus)
A female visits the bird feeders at Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 17th May.
159. Snow bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis)
A small flock seen on a roadside north of Kaamanen (69.473, 27.232) on 17th May.
160. Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella)
Seen in forest edge around Viikki on 13th and 19th May.
161. Reed bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus)
Abundant in the reeds of Old City bay (Vanhankaupunginlahti) near Viikki on 13th and 19th May. A male visits the brid feeder at Neljän Tuulen Tupa on 14th May. At least one bird seen from Vihtasalmi near Kuusamo on 18th May.
162. Rustic bunting (Emberiza rustica)
At least two males singing in the trees around Vihtasalmi tower near Kuusamo on 18th May.
Mammals
1. Red fox (Vulpes vulpes)
Numerous individuals on the road in Tana Bru and Kongsfjordfjellet on 14th and 15th May.
2. Stoat (Mustela erminea)
An individual with summer fur close to Svartnes bay on 16th May. Another individual crossing the road on 17th May.
3. Moose (Alces alces)
Up to 13 different individuals on the fields south of Tana Bru late on 14th May.
4. Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus)
Very abundant across Lapland, seen daily north to Varanger and south to Kuusamo.
5. Gray seal (Halichoerus grypus)
Three individuals swimming in a bay in Hornøya on 16th May. An individual seen by Darío in Ekkerøya on 17th May.
6. Northern fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus)
Some individuals in a pod mixed with humpback whales seen from Hornøya on 16th May.
7. Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae)
A pod mixed with some fin whales seen from Hornøya on 16th May.
8. European hare (Lepus europaeus)
Seen in the fields of Etu-Viikki and Latokartano in Helsinki on 13th and 19th May.
9. Mountain hare (Lepus timidus)
Seen easily on different dates across Finnish Lapland and Varanger.
10. Tundra vole (Alexandromys oeconomus)
Many burrows found mostly. on the islands and peninsulas of Varanger, with individuals observed in Vardøya on 16th May.
Amphibians
1. European common frog (Rana temporaria)
Several individuals found across Finnish lapland roads, some unfortunately roadkilled.
Red fox (Vulpes vulpes), 14 May 2024 (Guillem de los Santos Pérez)
Stoat (Mustela erminea), 16 May 2024 (Adrián Colino Barea)
Moose (Alces alces), 14 May 2024 (Adrián Colino Barea)
Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus), 14 May 2024 (Adrián Colino Barea)
European common frog (Rana temporaria), 17 May 2024 (Adrián Colino Barea)
Trip on the media
Listen to an interview to Pep Cantó on the local radio program Radio Alcoy about his experiences in the trip (en valencià) and read a short article by pressing here.