Cat Tien National Park is home to one of the largest remaining lowland forests in Vietnam. During our trip to Asia, Darío Gijón and I spent several days exploring this park, seeking out its unique wildlife. The grasslands offer possible sightings of green peafowls (Pavo muticus) and gaurs (Bos gaurus), while the lakes are home to Siamese crocodiles (Crocodylus siamensis). However, the forest understory is where the true gems are found—exquisite species of pittas and pheasants that are native to this region. These birds are notoriously shy, making them most reliably seen from photographic hides. Fortunately, the logistics for visiting these hides in Cat Tien are quite straightforward, so we decided to get our first experience in a private hide.
Yesterday, we had an incredible day guided by Mr. Trong, a fellow ecologist and a highly knowledgeable local birdwatching guide. He helped us connect with the birds of Cat Tien and familiarize ourselves with the best areas to search for our target species. He also assisted us in arranging our hide visit for today. Typically, visiting a hide costs VND 500,000 (about USD 22). However, since it’s currently the low (rainy) season and many of the top birds are absent from the hides, Mr. Trong secured access to multiple hides for the price of one, with the understanding that our chances of spotting certain species were low. It’s worth noting that while negotiating such a deal with the staff at the headquarters might be possible, their limited English proficiency could pose a challenge. Regardless, even a single hide pass would have been a worthwhile choice.
Since we stayed at Thuy Tien Eco Lodge, a wonderful accommodation on the other side of the river, we could only reach Cat Tien National Park at 7:00 AM when the office opened, and the boats began transferring people—a service included in the park entrance fee. Shortly after, we met the park ranger who would guide us to the hides. Our first stop was a hide located about 1 km south of the headquarters on the east side of the road. As we arrived, we heard the calls of several white-crested laughingthrushes (Garrulax leucolophus), a blue-winged pitta (Pitta moluccensis), and an Asian barred owlet (Glaucidium cuculoides) in the vicinity. The routine of the hides is simple: the ranger spreads mealworms and cereals on the ground, we all hide in the shelter, and a hidden speaker plays bird calls to attract the species.
Although the soundtracks include the songs and calls of target species, I believe they mainly serve as an indicator to the birds that food is available. Within seconds of the playback starting, numerous stripe-throated bulbuls (Pycnonotus finlaysoni), streak-eared bulbuls (Pycnonotus conradi), and white-rumped shamas (Copsychus malabaricus) quickly arrived to feed on the mealworms. Some bird of these species was somewhere to be seen close to the feeding area at all times, allowing to observe hierarchical behavior between different individuals and species.
A greater coucal (Centropus sinensis) strolled on the ground, its size and movements reminiscent of a small dinosaur. A greater racket-tailed drongo (Dicrurus paradisaeus) and a buff-breasted babbler (Pellorneum tickelli) also joined the feeding frenzy. We were also treated to two new species: the Indochinese blue flycatcher (Cyornis sumatrensis) and the puff-throated babbler (Pellorneum ruficeps). Meanwhile, a black-and-red broadbill (Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos) busied itself with nest-building nearby.
After about 20 minutes of waiting, the first star species made its appearance. Two green-legged partridges (Tropicoperdix chloropus chloropus) cautiously crossed the open area. They fed briefly on the cereals, surrounded by babblers and bulbuls, before quietly slipping back into the underbrush, never to be seen again. The call of this species is strong and distinctive, and we had heard it throughout the forest yesterday. However, spotting them in the dense understory is a different challenge.
Not long after, perhaps the top species of this hide made its appearance. The ranger signaled us, and as if on cue, a female Germain’s peacock-pheasant (Polyplectron germaini) emerged from the shadows. This species, currently classified as vulnerable by the IUCN, is restricted to a narrow range of forests in mid-southern Vietnam and southeastern Cambodia. This particular female showed signs of a wing injury and had worn tail plumage, but observing this species up close for an extended time was truly special.
After a long stretch of watching “only” babblers and bulbuls, the ranger alerted us to another movement. A shadow shifted in the vegetation, and eventually, a fantastic female Siamese fireback (Lophura diardi) appeared. This pheasant species is particularly stunning, with bright red legs and a facial patch, a brown body, and finely banded feathers on the wings and tail.
Later on, a pair of Siamese firebacks took the stage. The male appeared first, displaying its long glossy tail and unique head tufts. The beauty of their plumage, with each sex complementing the other, made seeing them together especially pleasing.
The experience reached a new level when a male Germain’s peacock-pheasant joined the Siamese firebacks. Observing these extremely shy pheasants in the wild is no easy task, but having both species together in the same frame was a rare and unforgettable moment. This scene epitomizes the bird hide experience in Asia, where numerous shy species, difficult to spot otherwise, are lured in by mealworms, tape recordings, and consistent local effort. This practice provides bird enthusiasts with reliable opportunities to see these species and offers local communities an additional income source. I wonder, however, what are the implications for the birds themselves. Food for thought.
The male Germain’s peacock-pheasant showed impeccable plumage. Although males and females of this brown species look relatively similar, the iridescent details of the feathers were incredibly striking in the male. Shades of purple and blue resembling sapphires.
Bird activity slowed down significantly after 10:00 AM, once the pheasants left and only the males made brief reappearances. We returned to the headquarters, hoping to try our luck with the pittas. Yesterday, we had spotted a blue-winged pitta singing along the trail behind the headquarters and caught glimpses of a male bar-bellied pitta (Hydrornis elliotii) playing hide-and-seek in the shadows. Some birds hold territories along this trail and can indeed be seen with effort outside the hides. While waiting for the ranger to return, we wandered along the pitta trail and were delighted by the acrobatic moves of critically endangered yellow-cheeked gibbons (Nomascus gabriellae) near the headquarters.
There is a hide along this pitta trail, and we would have liked to try our luck there. Although the blue-rumped pitta (Hydrornis soror) seems to be absent during the rainy season, the chance to see the bar-bellied pitta up close was tempting. Both species are local specialties, restricted to Vietnam and nearby Cambodia and Laos, with the latter species’ unique green pattern setting it apart among pittas.
Several hours later, well after lunch, our ranger reappeared. We asked him to take us to a hide where we might see the rarely seen endemic orange-necked partridge (Arborophila davidi) or the pittas. Communication was a bit challenging, and we ended up at a hide in the same area as our first, but on the western side of the road — not the pitta hide and likely not the orange-necked partridge hide either. But as the saying goes, never look a gift horse in the mouth.
The afternoon began similarly, with the same species of bulbuls, babblers, shamas, coucals, and drongos making appearances. However, the pace was slower, and the atmosphere quieter. The temperature climbed well over 30°C, and the mosquitoes became more relentless as time went on. The occasional call of common flamebacks (Dinopium javanense) broke the silence. After asking again, the ranger assured us that both pittas and partridges were possible at this hide, then left us to wait.
After several hours of patient waiting, we did see some new birds. Abbott’s babblers (Malacocincla abbottii) and black-headed bulbul (Microtarsus melanocephalus) hadn’t appeared in the first hide. A pair of black-naped monarchs (Hypothymis azurea) also joined briefly, with the male providing excellent views.
We also got good looks at the local race of gray-eyed bulbul (Iole propinqua innectens), pretty much restricted to Cat Tien. Three young racket-tailed treepies (Crypsirina temia) were initially hesitant but eventually joined the feast for a while. Although a female Indochinese blue flycatcher flew back and forth throughout the afternoon, it wasn’t until dusk that a male finally joined in, drawing my camera settings to the limits. As darkness fell and the mosquito situation became unbearable, we decided to call it a day, having missed our target partridges and pittas.
Overall, visiting these hides was a positive experience, offering a change of pace from our usual birdwatching routine. Although many species can be seen from these hides during the dry season, most birds are now found elsewhere in the forest. For example, banded kingfisher (Lacedo pulchella) and orange-breasted trogon (Harpactes oreskios) are typically seen around the Forest Floor Lodge, about 1.5 km north of the headquarters. The pittas, as we discovered, can potentially be found outside the hides as we did (thanks Mr Trong!). However, I believe Cat Tien hides are great to find and enjoy the stunning gamefowl, especially the Siamese fireback and the Germain’s peacock-pheasant. Also, focusing on photography rather than bird spotting today has been rather nice and calm for a change.
No responses yet