Three years ago, I boarded several flights to visit my friend Sara Masó, who was spending a few months at the University of Réunion as part of a mobility program of our degree in Biology. This trip marked my first experience in the tropics. Driving around the island in a small rental car, snorkeling until dusk, and camping on scenic beaches felt like living a dream. But birdwatching was also on my agenda, and I got a chance to connect with most of the stars of the region.
During my stay, I lodged at Sara’s place on the university campus in Saint-Denis. Here, introduced species were particularly abundant. Common mynas (Acridotheres tristis), red-whiskered bulbuls (Pycnonotus jocosus), zebra doves (Geopelia striata), red fodies (Foudia madagascariensis), and Malagasy turtle-doves (Nesoenas picturatus) were all new to me. Other exotic species like oriental garden lizards (Calotes versicolor) and gold dust day geckos (Phelsuma laticauda) added to the novelty. Among native birds, white-tailed tropicbirds (Phaethon lepturus), known locally as “paille-en-queue,” could be seen flying gracefully even over the urban campus. The only endemic bird present, the Reunion gray white-eye (Zosterops borbonicus), proved to be common, flitting about the trees like tiny kinglets.
On December 6, 2021, I set out to explore the volcanic terrain I was most eager to visit: Roche-Écrite, one of Réunion’s main peaks and the closest to Saint-Denis. Sara couldn’t join me, but her friend, geographer Kuba Balik, tagged along. Kuba drove us through the narrow, winding roads of the scenic Cirque du Salazie, making the journey as memorable as the destination. After a long drive, we reached the starting point of the trail to Roche-Écrite through Dos d’Âne. This peak is home to some of the island’s rarest and most fascinating birds — species found nowhere else on Earth.
The trail began in a Casuarina grove, where I spotted my first Mascarene swiftlets (Aerodramus francicus). As we ascended through mixed forest dominated by introduced plants, the landscape became increasingly enchanting, with streams cascading into waterfalls. Several red fodies and red-whiskered bulbuls sang. The climb quickly turned steep, with sections so vertical that ladders were necessary. Here, the vegetation shifted to a rich tapestry of native and endemic species, including the striking Mascarene palm lily (Cordyline mauritiana) and an abundance of epiphytic orchids and ferns.
The first target seen was the tec-tec, or Réunion stonechat (Saxicola tectes). Endemic to the island, this charming bird thrives in open areas, but few birds were seen in the dense shrub of the trail, unbothered by human presence. Sara had showed me pictures of tec-tecs behaving inquisitively after them on several treks around the island. Although we didn’t see hikers in Dos d’Âne, they probably look for breadcrumbs.
Almost simultaneously, a pair of Mascarene paradise-flycatchers (Terpsiphone bourbonnensis) showed up in the dense thicket. Even if males of this Mascarene endemic lack the typical long tail of the genus, the pattern of the species makes them extremely smart. We found few more pairs not too far away. This bird quickly became my personal favorite among the endemics.
Open clearings along the trail offered panoramic views of the Cirque du Salazie. In one such spot, I finally encountered the apparently elusive Réunion bulbuls (Hypsipetes borbonicus). As I recorded their melodious calls, I was only granted with a single brief glimpse of a bird.
Another highlight came on a forest clearing, when a male Réunion harrier (Circus maillardi) soared near the vertical cliffs. The pied pattern of the male is gorgeous. Though I managed a few photos with my old camera, they barely did justice to this rare raptor — there are not many pictures of this bird on the internet! Later, I spotted a distant female after ascending some hundred meters more.
The forested slopes were alive with the omnipresent Réunion gray white-eyes, which seemed to sport different color morphs — one gray, one brownish. Surprisingly, I spotted only one Réunion olive white-eye (Zosterops olivaceus), a relative endemic bird which, unlike its abundant counterpart, displays a white ocular ring.
As happy as I was with all these encounters, I had a harder time trying to look for the true gem of this volcano. Roche-Écrite is the last bastion for the tuit-tuit, the local name for the Réunion cuckooshrike (Lalage newtoni). Evolutionarily, this striking species seems to have originated in southeast Asia rather than Africa. With an estimated population of just 50 adults confined to 16 km² at the time of my visit, this striking bird is perilously close to extinction — despite having stable populations, a single tropical storm or wildlife could potentially wipe out the whole tuit-tuit population.
The rarity of the tuit-tuit explains how difficult it is to spot it while trekking the volcano. However, its local name stands for its distinctive vocalizations. One of the many times I stopped Kuba to look for some bird or plant was right before reaching the top of the slopes, as I had heard some tuit-tuit-like calls. A distant bird in the direction of the call vanished into the vegetation as soon as I spotted it, and I subsequently failed to record the call or even hear it again. The rough, vertical terrain makes it virtually impossible to walk after a bird. The tuit-tuit is a phantom in Roche-Écrite.
Suddently, we reached the summit plateau. The rocky but now flat terrain, dotted with heath (Erica reunionensis) and other endemic bushes growing on rock crevices, and battered by clouds sweeping in from the ocean, was breathtaking. Tec-tecs and gray white-eyes found there a haven, seemingly unbothered by the harsh environment. When the clouds allowed, the views were fantastic.
We reached the top at 2,072 m. The whole plateau was quite breathtaking, but the highest peaks of the island are still hundreds of meters higher. Cold, barren lands in the middle of the tropic. It is incredible to think that these areas are the nesting ground for seabirds, including the endemic and endangered Barau’s petrel (Pterodroma baraui), which proved quite easy to spot flying into the volcanos along streams from the shore, and the enigmatic Mascarene petrel (Pseudobulweria aterrima), an incredibly rare species that only a handful of people have seen on the field.
The descent was faster but more challenging, as the steep terrain demanded full concentration. Bird activity had quieted, though the Réunion bulbuls remained in their earlier spot. The only new sighting was a tiny African common toad (Sclerophrys gutturalis), a fitting end to an unforgettable hike.
Réunion left an indelible impression on me. Looking for the endemic wildlife of a remote island is an exhilarating adventure. But it succeeded my expectations in so many ways. Somehow, the dramatic landscapes and the whole atmosphere were different from what I expected. Writing these lines transported me to the excitement of my first transcontinental trip. Dips in the beach and hikes to waterfalls and warmth all day and night, with the only breath of cooler, fresh air on top of the rock. Réunion is a very special place.