Hornbills are one of the main targets for me and Darío Gijón on our current trip through Southeast Asia. On our itinerary, the region where more species of these majestic birds can be seen in good conditions is Sabah, the north side of Malaysian Borneo. Eight different hornbill species are present in Borneo, none of them endemic. We were lucky enough to connect with seven of them, including critically endangered species targeted by many bird enthusiasts worldwide. As the two-week leg of our trip in Borneo is coming to an end, it is time to compile the sightings and logistics we used to find these dinosaur-looking birds, mostly in the areas of Sepilok and Kinabatangan.
In Sepilok, which we reached from Sandakan airport thanks to a driver from the app Grab, five hornbill species are common. We connected with three of them, plus an additional, locally rare species. Note that we stayed at Forest Edge Resort (ebird spot here), a fantastic accommodation not very far from the Rainforest Discovery Center (RDC), the prime birdwatching location in Sepilok (ebird spot here). Forest Edge is owned by bird photographer Mr. Peter Pang, and one can sense it when staying at the resort — options and prices for all budgets and a picturesque, very birdy garden. When we first met him in Bukit Fraser, Mr. Peter warned us that some of our hornbill targets are today more reliable on the mainland due to poaching. However, we managed to spot all four hornbills within the gardens of his resort — more species seen than in RDC altogether!
The best location for hornbills in Borneo is undoubtedly the Kinabatangan River (ebird spot here). Visits to the river usually consist of packages including a number of nights of accommodation, meals, and boat tours with a guide and/or boatman. In our case, a local driver brought us to Sukau, where we arranged a booking of three nights in Sukau Backpackers via email. Although the booking was confirmed, an unreplied last-minute email from the accommodation resulted in an unwelcome cancellation of our reservation. The staff managed to get us a cabin under pretty basic conditions in Sukau Sandipau, a little family-owned homestay on the other side of the river. On a personal level, we enjoyed the best time of our trip in Sukau Sandipau, but with no WiFi to contact birdwatching guides (there is mobile coverage, but we have no SIM card), no paths around to walk through, and a staff with rather generalistic targets on the boat rides, we feel like our birdwatching experience could have been easily improved to connect with tricky targets such as Bornean ground cuckoo (Carpococcyx radiceus) or Bornean crested fireback (Lophura ignita), and to ensure good observations of all hornbills, as all eight species are possible in Kinabatangan.
On our boat rides, mostly focused on Bornean orangutans (Pongo pygmaeus), proboscis monkeys (Nasalis larvatus), estuarine crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus), and Bornean pygmy elephants (Elephas maximus — for which we would have needed to pay extra as they were far away at the moment of our visit —, we found interesting birds roosting in the riverine vegetation including cinnamon-headed green-pigeon (Treron fulvicollis) and the sought-after Storm’s stork (Ciconia stormi). Encounters with hornbills consisted mostly of birds flying overhead randomly as we moved up and down the river. Having said this, we would strongly recommend staying in Sukau Sandipau for a very affordable price, food, and atmosphere while perhaps arranging a number of boat trips with specialized guides. With Sukau Sandipau boat rides, we connected with five hornbill species, and two additional species were found on a day visiting the nearby Gomantong Caves, which we visited thanks to a driver arranged by the staff of the homestay.
The easiest hornbill species is undoubtedly the oriental pied-hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris). This hornbill is well distributed throughout the Indochinese and Malay peninsulas east to central India, including Sumatra, Java, Bali, Borneo, and numerous smaller islands. Unlike other hornbills, this species can tolerate human disturbance and is often found in urban parks, gardens, and crops. In Borneo, we found pairs in several lowland areas across Sabah. In Sepilok, the staff at Forest Edge even let us know every time a couple of these birds approached the trees around the restaurant so we enjoyed breakfast with great looks at them on different occasions. This species is abundant in Kinabatangan River, and a pair was present in the garden of Sukau Sandipau homestay almost at all times. We even saw an individual hunting bats as they left the Gomantong Cave at dusk.
The spectacular rhinoceros hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros) is the largest hornbill of Borneo and one of the Big Five of the island. Found in the south Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, the low and loud calls if heard, and large size plus singular casque if seen makes this bird unmistakable even from afar. We enjoyed some distant looks of birds flying over and feeding on fruiting trees early in the morning on several days in the gardens of Forest Edge and on RDC in Sepilok. In Kinabatangan River, this is one of the species targeted by most boatmen, and despite not being abundant, we saw at least a couple of birds on each of our rides at different times of the day, including some fairly close looks. Their calls could be heard often from Forest Edge and Sukau Sandipau.
The black hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus) is the next species in the number of observations. This bird, occurring in a disjunct range across south Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Borneo, is fairly similar to the Oriental pied-hornbill but prefers more primary habitats. Another one of the hornbills of Sepilok, we managed looks of single males (some with white napes and some with fully black plumage) and pairs both in Forest Edge and RDC, where it seemed relatively easy to connect with, sometimes providing nice observations. We also spotted only a few birds on two of our boat tours across the Kinabatangan River.
The wreathed hornbill (Rhyticeros undulatus) has a wide distribution ranging from northeast India throughout Indochina and the Malay Peninsula to the Sunda Islands. Unlike the other hornbills, lowland specialists, this hornbill can be found in both lowland and montane forests. During our trip, we had two encounters with wreathed hornbills. The first was in Sepilok, where we spotted a pair flying over the reception area at Forest Edge Resort, being chased by a peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus ernesti). The second sighting was near Gomantong Caves, where we observed several individuals perched in the trees. Despite not seeing this species along the Kinabatangan River, our brief glimpses were still memorable.
Another fascinating species we encountered was the bushy-crested hornbill (Anorrhinus galeritus), the smallest hornbill in Borneo. Typically seen in groups, this species is known for its social behavior. Although we missed it in Sepilok, we were lucky to see several groups during our boat rides along the Kinabatangan River and near Gomantong Caves. The groups we saw were usually small, but their distinctive calls, rather big flocks, and active foraging usually make them easy to spot.
The wrinkled hornbill (Rhabdotorrhinus corrugatus) was another highlight of our trip. With its unique color pattern, this species stands out as my favorite species among the hornbills of Borneo. We saw several wrinkled hornbills, mostly flying overhead during our boat rides in Kinabatangan. However, we only managed distant views of perched individuals. This species seemed less common than the others seen in Kinabatangan, so we were thrilled with our sightings, even if they were brief.
The most extraordinary hornbill we encountered was the helmeted hornbill (Rhinoplax vigil). This critically endangered species is one of the rarest and most sought-after birds in Southeast Asia. Its bizarre appearance, with a large casque and long tail feathers, makes it instantly recognizable. We were incredibly fortunate to see a male flying across the Kinabatangan River and later hear its distinctive maniacal laugh call echoing through the forest. Our boatman mentioned that the helmeted hornbill is never seen perched and is only observed flying high above the river, making our sighting even more special.
Unfortunately, we missed the white-crowned hornbill (Berenicornis comatus), a species that is considered relatively common in Sepilok and possible to see along the Kinabatangan River. Despite our efforts, this elusive bird eluded us, reminding us of the unpredictability of birdwatching. This species’ absence from our sightings serves as a reminder that even in the most productive birdwatching locations, not every target can be guaranteed.
Before this trip, my experience with hornbills was limited to two small species in Kenya. The large, majestic hornbills of Borneo have been a revelation, adding an exciting challenge to our journey. Targeting hornbills was a great decision, not only for the fantastic sightings but also because it allowed us to stay within our budget while still enjoying one of the most rewarding birdwatching experiences in Southeast Asia.